Braunwald - the three-peak Via ferrata

Braunwald

Kärpf

Kärpf

Eggstöcke

Eggstöcke

adrenalin backpackers hostel, braunwald im glarnerland, switzerland

adrenalin backpackers hostel, braunwald im glarnerland, switzerland

Ortstock

Ortstock

Tödi

Tödi

Gondelbahn Hüttenberg-Grotzenbüel

Gondelbahn Hüttenberg-Grotzenbüel

Chämistuba

Chämistuba

Braunwald 2

Braunwald 2

Braunwald

Braunwald

Seblen

Seblen

Braunwald 3

Braunwald 3

Grotzenbüel

Grotzenbüel

Large, widely varied ridge crossing against a fantastic Alpine backdrop; it features a short walk-in, plenty of action and a few special highlights such as the large suspension bridge. Only suitable in good weather conditions (with no risk of storms!).

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Difficulty
Mittlerer Eggstock: K 3. A truly pleasurable route: in part stimulatingly aerial, but only moderately difficult thanks to the optimal safety elements.
Hinterer Eggstock: K 5. The ascent is very difficult, with a tricky key section of the climb which needs some consideration before attacking it. Something for experienced and fearless via ferrata climbers.

Starting-point
Braunwald (1,256 m) is reached via a funicular railway from Linthal, in the furthest part of the Glarner Land region - reached from Zürich via Ziegelbrücke. From here, the chairlift/cable car takes you to Gumen.

Walk-in
From the Berggasthaus Gumen (1,901 m; information board), follow a marked path over the slope of broken rock diagonally upwards to the paraglider launching areas on the Gumen ridge and left alongside the fence to the starting-point, with the last part being over rocky steps (2,120 m).

Braunwald via ferrata, 1st section
With good safety protection, proceed across the stepped rocky projection of Leiteregg, and then on the ridge as the route becomes increasingly steep and heads through a short chimney (iron pins). Turn to the left over a deep cleft and use iron stirrups to climb steeply to a corner below overhangs. You climb out from this onto a platform. Anchor-points assist over a vertical section, then left to an exposed corner and gently onto the grassy crest of Leiteregg (2,310 m) with its  "Edelweissbank". There is a short downward section towards the Vorderer Eggstock, where the route forks. Head downwards to the left, in part via steps, amongst rocks on the grassy slope (do not kick up stones: there is a climbing school below); finally, two ladders lead to the foot of the rock. Head left to go back to the starting-point.

Braunwald via ferrata, 2nd section
From the fork in the path, head diagonally right. The route becomes increasingly steep, leading to an exposed shoulder of rock. Continue on to an almost vertical ladder, via which you access a horizontal band of rock. Go left along this to a steep chimney (iron pins) and, in a demanding climb, onto more easy terrain. A final upwards section takes you to the top of the Vorder Eckstock (2,449 m). Over the top, head downwards on the northern side of the ridge and then take the spectacular but technically undemanding 16-metre "Charlotte Bridge" over a gap. After this, initially you work along the rocks on the southern flank, and then right on the ridge with continuous rope wire safety until you cross onto the extensive meadow leading to the peak of the Mittler Eggstock (2,420 m).
After a short downhill section to the next fork in the route (right takes you to Hinter Eggstock), then very steeply down (caution: do not kick any stones loose!) again via the southern flank, and ultimately with the aid of a slightly wobbly (but firmly attached) rope ladder on an overhang to the exit point. Then down the scree to the walking path leading from Gumen to Bützi, and left to the lift.

Braunwald via ferrata, 3rd section
From the fork in the route below the Mittler Eggstock, there is a short downhill section to the gap (2,358 m) in front of the Hinter Eggstock, and then semi-left into the very off-putting rock wall - here the route becomes increasingly steep. The key to the climb, which has a slight overhang, calls for commitment, and a further passage somewhat higher up is similarly daunting: 'dancing over the abyss', so to speak. After this, it is an easy route to the exit on the Hinter Eggstock (2445 m).

Descent
Following the clear white-blue-white markers (stakes) across the pastures of the Ober Boden, in a pleasant downhill walk to Bützi, where you meet a hiking route. Follow this, keeping to the left across a gentle downhill section with no great variations in height, back to the Gumen lift station (1,901 m).


Quelle:
Eugen E. Hüsler/Daniel Anker: Wandern vertikal. Die Klettersteige der Schweiz, AT Verlag, Baden 2004

Information

Region: Glarner Alps, Braunwald
Peaks: Leiteregg (2,310 m), Vorder Eggstock (2,449 m), Mittler and Hinter Eggstock
Time required: Short circuit (Leiteregg) around 2h30 - 3h30 hours, medium circuit (Mittler Eggstock) 4h15 - 6h15 hours, long circuit (Hinter Eggstock) 6h30 - 7h hours.
Variation in height: 410 m to 700 m

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