Tälli - the pioneering Swiss climb


Hasliberg: Mägisalp

Hasliberg: Mägisalp

Hasliberg Hohfluh: Hasliberg: Blick auf die Berner Alpen

Hasliberg Hohfluh: Hasliberg: Blick auf die Berner Alpen

A characteristic Alpine via ferrata, set against a stunning backdrop, with excellent safety using rope wires, pitons and some ladders.

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K3. A quite extensive via ferrata of medium difficulty, with some airy passages. It is a route only to be attempted in good weather, as there is no option to come off the route along the way. In early summer, there is often still snow lying at the start point of the via ferrata, on the higher ledges and on the route for the descent on the north side (it may be advisable to take crampons and an ice-axe - but you also need to be able to use these properly).

Furen (1149 m) in the Gadmertal valley, post-buses Meiringen - Gadmen (a 470.71) and Meiringen -Engstlenalp (a 470.80).

From Furen (1,149 m), take the road to the valley station (1,171 m) of the Tälli cable-car to the Tälli alpine hut; there is no official stop for the post-bus. You can get information about the KWO in Innertkirchen, Tel. 033 982 20 60. Take the hiking route, briefly using the access road to Alp Birchlaui (1,597 m), over the lightly wooded slope to the Tälli alpine hut (1,716 m). Then follow the white-blue markers beneath the precipitous walls of the Tällistock, heading diagonally towards the mountain and the start of the via ferrata at Alpligerstock (2,067 m).

Tälli via ferrata
The via ferrata begins with a steep ladder leading onto an airy horizontal ledge. You follow this to the right until the safety features indicate that you should climb again. The route rapidly gains height, over tiers of rock, grassy outcrops and narrow ledges; after roughly a third of the climb, a wooden bench offers a chance for a rest. This is followed by a relatively exposed traverse, before the route makes towards the distinctive band of terraces in the upper part of the wall. A steep corner is easily mastered with the aid of three ladders, offset into the rock. Another iron ladder takes you onto a rising grassed ledge. The final part is over scree to the finishing-point on the ridge.

Following the clear white-blue markers through a cirque hollow (in early summer, generally there is still some snow lying here) and over grassy humpbacks down to the mountain path coming off Sätteli. Head right on this to Engstlensee (1,850 m) and on to Engstlenalp (1,834 m).

Eugen E. Hüsler/Daniel Anker: Wandern vertikal. Die Klettersteige der Schweiz, AT Verlag, Baden 2004


Region: Bernese Oberland, Gadmertal
Peak: Gadmerflue (ca. 2,540 m); the via ferrata comes out on the ridge, and so does not take in any peaks.
Time required: walk-in 3 hours, via ferrata 2 1/2 hours, descent 1 3/4 hours.; total 7 1/4 hours.
Variation in height:
1,390 m on the climb (via ferrata 500 m), 700 m on the descent

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