Difficulty
Mittlerer Eggstock: K 3. A truly pleasurable route: in part
stimulatingly aerial, but only moderately difficult thanks to the
optimal safety elements.
Hinterer Eggstock: K 5. The ascent is very difficult, with a tricky key
section of the climb which needs some consideration before attacking
it. Something for experienced and fearless via ferrata climbers.
Starting-point
Braunwald (1,256 m) is reached via a funicular railway from Linthal, in
the furthest part of the Glarner Land region - reached from Zürich via
Ziegelbrücke. From here, the chairlift takes you to Gumen; the facility
operates from mid-/end June until the end of October, 8.00-12.30,
13.30-17.00.
Walk-in
From the Restaurant Gumen (1,901 m; information board), follow a marked
path over the slope of broken rock diagonally upwards to the paraglider
launching areas on the Gumen ridge and left alongside the fence to the
starting-point, with the last part being over rocky steps (2,120 m).
Braunwald via ferrata, 1st section
With good safety protection, proceed across the stepped rocky
projection of Leiteregg, and then on the ridge as the route becomes
increasingly steep and heads through a short chimney (iron pins). Turn
to the left over a deep cleft and use iron stirrups to climb steeply to
a corner below overhangs. You climb out from this onto a platform.
Anchor-points assist over a vertical section, then left to an exposed
corner and gently onto the grassy crest of Leiteregg (2,310 m) with
its "Edelweissbank". There is a short downward section towards
the Vorderer Eggstock, where the route forks. Head downwards to the
left, in part via steps, amongst rocks on the grassy slope (do not kick
up stones: there is a climbing school below); finally, two ladders lead
to the foot of the rock. Head left to go back to the starting-point.
Braunwald via ferrata, 2nd section
From the fork in the path, head diagonally right. The route becomes
increasingly steep, leading to an exposed shoulder of rock. Continue on
to an almost vertical ladder, via which you access a horizontal band of
rock. Go left along this to a steep chimney (iron pins) and, in a
demanding climb, onto more easy terrain. A final upwards section takes
you to the top of the Vorder Eckstock (2,449 m). Over the top, head
downwards on the northern side of the ridge and then take the
spectacular but technically undemanding 16-metre "Charlotte Bridge"
over a gap. After this, initially you work along the rocks on the
southern flank, and then right on the ridge with continuous rope wire
safety until you cross onto the extensive meadow leading to the peak of
the Mittler Eggstock (2,420 m).
After a short downhill section to the next fork in the route (right
takes you to Hinter Eggstock), then very steeply down (caution: do not
kick any stones loose!) again via the southern flank, and ultimately
with the aid of a slightly wobbly (but firmly attached) rope ladder on
an overhang to the exit point. Then down the scree to the walking path
leading from Gumen to Bützi, and left to the lift.
Braunwald via ferrata, 3rd section
From the fork in the route below the Mittler Eggstock, there is a short
downhill section to the gap (2,358 m) in front of the Hinter Eggstock,
and then semi-left into the very off-putting rock wall - here the route
becomes increasingly steep. The key to the climb, which has a slight
overhang, calls for commitment, and a further passage somewhat higher
up is similarly daunting: 'dancing over the abyss', so to speak. After
this, it is an easy route to the exit on the Hinter Eggstock (2445 m).
Descent
Following the clear white-blue-white markers (stakes) across the
pastures of the Ober Boden, in a pleasant downhill walk to Bützi, where
you meet a hiking route. Follow this, keeping to the left across a
gentle downhill section with no great variations in height, back to the
Gumen lift station (1,901 m).
Braunwald - the three-peak classic
Braunwald
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Large, widely varied ridge crossing against a fantastic Alpine
backdrop; it features a short walk-in, plenty of action and a few
special highlights such as the large suspension bridge. Only suitable
in good weather conditions (with no risk of storms!).
![]() | Quelle: Eugen E. Hüsler/Daniel Anker: Wandern vertikal. Die Klettersteige der Schweiz, AT Verlag, Baden 2004 |
Region: Glarner Alps, Braunwald
Peaks: Leiteregg (2,310 m), Vorder Eggstock (2,449 m), Mittler and Hinter Eggstock
Time required: Short circuit (Leiteregg) around 2 3/4 hours, medium circuit (Mittler Eggstock) 4 1/2 hours, long circuit (Hinter Eggstock) 5 1/2 hours.
Variation in height: 410 m to 700 m
More links
Contact Information
- Braunwald-Klausenpass Tourismus AG
Dorf
8784 Braunwald
Tel. +41 (0)55 653 65 65
Fax +41 (0)55 653 65 66
info@braunwald.ch
www.braunwald.ch


