きのこの美味しい秋

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Intro

春のアミガサ茸（モリーユ）や夏のヤマドリ茸のように別の季節にとれるものもありますが、なんといってもきのこのシーズンは秋です。天候にもよりますが、実際には9月初め頃から各種きのこが採れ始めます。 ちなみに、湿度はプラス要素ですが、湿度が多すぎると問題が発生する場合もあります。 当たり年には、レストランの料理人もお客様もその恩恵を受けることができるでしょう。フランス語でジロールと呼ばれるアンズ茸、セップと呼ばれるポルチーニ茸などおいしい旬のきのこたち。多くのレストランが秋にはきのこ料理をメニューにいれていますが、とくにきのこファンに人気の店をご紹介します。

Restaurant Kle, Zurich

In vegan cooking, mushrooms are valuable commodities – with porcini or puffball mushrooms often used to replace meat and fish. Head chef at Kle, Zineb Hattab, is great at integrating not only the texture of mushrooms into her imaginative yet seemingly entirely effortless dishes but also their concentrated flavours. Some visitors supposedly even make their way here just for Hattab’s BBQ mushroom sandwiches with caramelised onions and ranch sauce!

Restaurant Hornberg, Saanenmöser

Brigitte and Christian Hoefliger-von Siebenthal frequently have mushrooms on offer. In early summer, these could be morels served alongside fried sweetbreads from Saanenland calves. Later in the year, their guests can enjoy chanterelles and porcini mushrooms, or some of the countless, often rare species that are all grouped together under the term “woodland mushrooms”. And what’s even better, guests can book a tour with mushroom collector Bert Inäbnit so that they can learn – if not everything – a whole lot about mushrooms and how to identify them. An entire programme on mushrooms!

Restaurant Gommerstuba, Ernen

Yvonne and Lars Dederscheck never know all that far in advance what they will be adding to their menu next – because the hosts at the Gommerstuba in Upper Valais consistently make these decisions based on what the season has to offer. They pick the herbs themselves, while vegetables and game are delivered to the kitchen by reliable suppliers. With a bit of luck, guests can enjoy mushrooms here in summer as well – for example, in the form of summer ceps served alongside meat dishes. And anyone not lucky enough to be treated to mushrooms during this time of the year will surely be able to enjoy them in autumn at the latest.

Restaurant Süder, Berne

The restaurant’s owners, Renate Fankhauser and Martin Moser, make no secret of their philosophy. A focus on fresh, seasonal cuisine. So for many weeks of the year there are no mushrooms at all on the menu, while other times, there are plenty. Between September and mid-November, many people make a booking here so that they can order game specialities served with porcini mushrooms or other forest mushroom species. Anyone who wants information about the various species only has to ask: the people here are extraordinarily knowledgeable about mushrooms!

Restaurant Scalottas Terroir, Lenzerheide

If there’s a restaurant that consistently implements the concept of sustainability and regional origin for Switzerland, then it’s the Outlet of the Schweizerhof in Lenzerheide. Head chef Hansjörg Ladurner lives by the concept and exclusively uses regional products from farmers and local producers that are produced in a way that is close to nature. The majestic mushroom is of course also included here – and used, for example, in a dish that combines local mountain potato foam with a creamy porcini mushroom sauce.

Casa Casutt, Ilanz

Therese and Linus Arpagaus have established themselves in the heart of Ilanz with their restaurant, the Casa Casutt. Although they cater to both locals and tourists, they have the chance to search for mushrooms themselves at any time of the year – of course, only within the permitted timeframe and in accordance with the law. The menu’s offerings are decided at short notice: perhaps the Bündnerfleisch carpaccio with porcini mushrooms. By the way, on request, groups of four to six people can cook, learn and eat together with the chef for an entire day. Of course, this also includes mushrooms!

Albergo Ristorante Centovalli, Tegna-Ponte Brolla

Of course, you can also simply choose the meat option in this restaurant, which has earned a solid reputation over the past 50 years that extends far beyond Ticino’s borders. The ravioli taste great too, and the wine list has been carefully curated. But in reality, the restaurant’s guests visit above all for a speciality that is one of a kind: its risotto with the best porcini mushrooms out there. This can be enjoyed on its own or as a side dish – enhanced with Gorgonzola and of course made using ingredients found in the local area.

Restaurant de L'Hôtel de Ville, Crissier

Don’t be shy around one of Switzerland’s best restaurants! Franck Giovannini, both the owner and head chef, can fall back on a network of suppliers like no other restaurant in Switzerland. Game has always played a major role in this establishment, but mushrooms are also shown in their best light here. This can be experienced as early as summer, with a dish of porcini mushrooms and chanterelles, served with confit aubergine. In autumn, guests are often able to try mushroom species that are rarely found elsewhere.

Gasthaus zur Fernsicht, Heiden

Tobias Funke’s gastronomy empire in Eastern Switzerland is divided into its gourmet restaurant and its alpine restaurant, which is just as ambitious but more geared towards everyday delights. Anyone who stops for a bite to eat here in autumn will often be treated to some of the best porcini mushrooms that can be found in Appenzell alongside their venison medallions. What’s more, head pâtissier Kay Baumgardt also occasionally incorporates mushrooms into his award-winning desserts to give them an earthy, spicy note.

Restaurant de l'Etoile, Charmey

Alexandra Müller has made a name for herself with her cuisine, which is both authentic and creative. Acting out of necessity, the German-born chef and hotel manager was forced to assume a leading role in the kitchen a couple of years ago – and made the best out of this situation. The bistro on the ground floor and the gourmet restaurant on the first floor complement one another. Just like the cheese, cream and many other ingredients, the porcini mushrooms and other mushrooms come from the local area.

Hostellerie du Pas de l'Ours, Crans-Montana

An authentic mountain restaurant – with flair and outstanding regional awareness. Head chef Franck Reynaud shops the same way for both the gourmet restaurant and the bistro, and rarely goes without the variety of mushrooms that Valais has to offer: A veal cutlet with chanterelles is one of the classic dishes, while a combination of celery, cauliflower, mushrooms foraged the day of and Pinot Gris comes together to create one of the highlights on the vegan menu.

Gasthaus Bären, Kölliken

A couple of classic dishes are always on the menu at this top-class country inn – such as the tartare, for example, which is available in several varieties. Or the Swiss free-range beef entrecôte. But above all else, visitors should look out for the seasonal menu, which focuses on game and mushrooms in autumn. The cream of porcini mushroom soup is a real classic, for example, and is cooked with particular skill and using particularly good mushrooms. By the way, owner Alfred Schmid knows just how important a well curated wine list is for mushroom fans!

Gasthof Neuhüsli, Langenthal

The inn’s history stretches as far back as the year 1876, but still today it exudes plenty of rustic charm and natural skill in the kitchen. From mid-autumn, game season will have begun, and by this point at the latest mushrooms will be in great demand – for example, for use in a chanterelle ragout or in mushroom ravioli. Owner Hans Marc Fiechter consistently comes up with new ideas – without putting himself in any danger – of how to turn his pub into a fine-dining restaurant.