トリュフの香る一皿

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Intro

おいしいトリュフのためにイタリアやフランスまで旅行する必要はありません。 香り高いキノコは、スイスのレストランで通年味わえるようになっています。夏から晩秋までは地元で採れるスイス産の夏トリュフ（Tuber aestivum）と秋トリュフ（Tuber uncinatum)が楽しめます。新年に入る頃までの冬には、隣接するイタリアのピエモンテ地方と周辺の黒いペリゴールトリュフ（Tuber melanosporum）または白いトリュフ（Tuber magnatum）もあります。スイスでとくに評判の高い、一流のトリュフ料理を提供するレストランを紹介します

Restaurant la Perla, Pieterlen

Tiziano Dugaro is one of the few chefs in Switzerland who does not just prepare the truffles, he also finds them himself. The truffle season here is between September and January – featuring collected autumn truffles or imported black and white truffles. The chef guarantees that only top-quality goods come into his kitchen. Rigatoni or tagliolini with truffles are classic dishes – and if there should be an occasional shortage of Tubers, porcini mushrooms are available as an alternative.

Restaurant O Vertige, Montagny

Romain Lécuyer and his team insist on regional products as a matter of principle – although the borders are somewhat flexible. Swiss salmon, eggs and cheese from the Jura, but also Atlantic-caught fish. As soon as autumn starts, truffle dishes are top of the list here. The Lake Murten region has after all made a name for itself with this type of mushroom and the Truffle Market in November.

La Table de Mary, Cheseaux-Noréaz

This restaurant run by Maryline and Loïc Nozahic has not only become one of the best in the Yverdon region but is now also among the top highlights in Switzerland. Regional, product-aware cooking is the focus here, with beef from Orges, polenta from Ticino, fresh regional herbs and vegetables and, of course, truffles.

Restaurant Stucki, Basel

Few cooks in Switzerland consider the origin of their products as much as Tanja Grandits, chef at the well-established restaurant Stucki. The “Chef of the Year”, as recognised by the GaultMillau restaurant guide, is very specific in her choice of truffle – maybe a Tuber melanosporum or black truffle, as a condiment to a knuckle of veal with cauliflower, or a white truffle for a creation made with barley and leeks. Chef Marco Böhler is happy to add slices to the food himself!

Ristorante Lorenzini, Berne

One of the most popular “Italians” in the Swiss capital and one which outsiders tend to miss because the actual restaurant is on the first floor. Homemade cappelletti and meat sauce served with pasta are classics here. However, as soon as autumn starts, the first regular guests are already asking when truffles will be included on the menu. The truffles are served with pasta, beef carpaccio or escalopes.

Restaurant Collina, Feusisberg

In Feusisberg, truffles are not saved just for a seasonal menu and are available for longer than one month: Truffle Festival. Which means that, as well as truffles being added to homemade pasta, there are also creations with bison or John Dory fish that include black or white mushrooms. And even out of season, many products such as beef, salmon and buffalo mozzarella come from the local region.

dr Egge - das Restaurant, Muttenz

You have to be quick if you want to get a place here on a weekend in November or December. The now traditional autumn menu is entirely dedicated to the white alba truffle. Discover its intensive taste in homemade pork carne cruda or in pasta or polenta. White and red wines from Piedmont are of course the perfect accompaniment – from Arneis to Barolo, there is plenty of choice!

Restaurant du Jura, Chevroux

Like so many in the west of Switzerland, this restaurant has built up a strong relationship with truffle-hunters in the region. The Jura and Lake Biel regions are famous for their significant quantities of autumn truffles. However, Annick and Olivier Marmier also include white truffles on their menus – for example in a beef tartar with foie gras. The kitchen has also made a name for itself with its curious gourmet creations – lamb with oriental spices – and an extensive wine list.

Restaurant Jägerhof, St. Gallen

Agron Lleshi is one of the best chefs in St. Gallen and has become known for his authentic gastronomy, even outside of this region in Eastern Switzerland. However, not many people are aware that he also has a particular talent for preparing truffles. Yet his autumn menu with game and truffles has class – see the fried Swabian cream cheese ravioli with confit of egg yolk, truffle sauce and crispy pastry rolls filled with parmesan foam.

Talvo by Dalsass, Champfèr

Martin Dalsass is one of those restaurateurs who still cherishes the good old style of gastronomy which has maybe been lost elsewhere. So here you can enjoy a whole guinea fowl or sole for two persons, ordered à la carte and prepared à la minute. And the native of South Tyrol also plays it safe when sourcing summer truffles and alba truffles – only the best products are added to the food. It is best to come at the start of the winter season, before the rush.

Ristorante da Enzo, Tegna-Ponte Brolla

Family-run business near the Italian border which has built up a strong relationship with the truffle-hunters. The sourced products are worked into homemade tagliolini with Champagne foam and truffles, and the sliced mushrooms are also served in a beef tartar with egg and focaccia or with a pork cutlet for two persons. Then it seems only right to order a chocolate cake – just don’t mention calories during the meal.