ViaSett

Vicosoprano was once the main settlement in the Val Bregaglia. The trade routes via the Maloja and Septimer passes helped the village accrue great wealth from an early stage. The alleys of the handsome village are lined with stately patrician houses with forge-made balconies. The windows and walls are often adorned with characteristic sgraffiti.

There is a path leading from Vicosoprano to Borgonovo and onwards to a gravel road to Coltura, where you will catch sight of the Palazzo Castelmur castle. Built in 1723, this imposing piece of architecture was extended in 1854 by Giovanni Castelmur with the addition of the two towers in the Venetian style. Further into the valley, you can make out the ruin of Castelmur castle, the site of the former toll station. You will arrive in Bondo shortly afterwards. The little municipality went on to become known for the rockslide that occurred at Pizzo Cengalo in August 2017.

On the right side of the valley, the village of Soglio basks on a sunny terrace. This is where Giovanni Segantini, a master of Alpine en plein air painting, wintered from 1896 onwards, spending summers in Maloja. During this period, he produced his best-known work, the Alpine Triptych.

Continuing on a gravel road, you will arrive at Castasegna on the Italian border. In the neighbouring country, the hiking trail first leads along a surfaced road for around one hour along the river Maira, before branching off into an enchanting chestnut forest. Past ruined buildings, helter-skelter steps and old dry stone walls, you will arrive at Santa Croce.

Soon, the two Acquafraggia waterfalls will come into view on the right-hand side. They spring up on the Cima da Lägh mountain, a watershed spanning from the North Sea to the Mediterranean. An hour or so later, you will reach the end of this leg in Chiavenna. This charming little town has a historic centre containing many restaurants and shops.