Thur Kanu

Although the catchment area of the Thur stretches from the Säntis to the Churfirsten, in summer the river typically has a lower water level. Since the river doesn’t flow through any lakes during its 127 kilometre-long journey that would regulate it, fluctuations due to rainfall are always very pronounced. Within just a few hours, the river can register an enormous water level. In this respect, the Thur lives up to its name in notable fashion: it comes from the Indo-European “dhu” meaning “the hurrying one”. Early inhabitants tried to protect themselves against recurring floods. In 1870, they built the first dams.

To this day, the Thur flows through these structures in parts. Thanks to renaturation measures, however, in many places the river has been restored to its natural state. The result is a delightful river landscape and worthwhile paddling experience. Diverse wildlife has also resettled, such as the little ringed plover, which is at risk of extinction. From your boat, it’s also possible to observe lots of fish in the clear water, while it’s not uncommon to be accompanied on your journey by swarms of broad-winged damselflies. When water levels are normal, the stretch of the river described here is easy to paddle. Therefore, it’s important to be aware of water levels and the weather.

The idyllic starting point of Andelfingen offers the opportunity to discover various beautiful timber-framed buildings. You launch by the outdoor swimming pool, right before the pedestrian bridge. Within a moment you are gliding gently along the clear water. At some points the Thur gathers pace as it passes by one of the countless gravel banks. In these sections, simply proceed in the middle of the current tongue. As the river is very shallow in places, a certain degree of foresight is required to find the route with the most water flow. During the first few kilometres, it’s worth making the most of the chance to rest on one of the beautiful gravel beaches. The tempting clear, cool water is perfect for bathing. Many simply can’t resist, so on fine weekends the water is bustling with swimmers. But by boat, you’ll always find a quiet spot on a gravel bank.

After a prominent riverbend, just under four kilometres on, the Thur floodplains (Thurauen) begin, the largest floodplain area in the Swiss Plateau. These last five or so kilometres, before the Thur joins the Rhine, have been renaturated. In other words, the Thur riverbed has been restored to its natural state, can once again meander freely and, when water levels are high, floods the surrounding floodplain landscape. This has created new habitats for rare species of plants and animals. Even the beaver has resettled in the area. If you keep your eyes peeled you can see their tracks in the form of trees that have been gnawed and felled.

At this point, the gentle current carries you to the point where the river joins the mighty Rhine. If water levels in the Rhine are high, you should exit the Thur on the left hand side of the river in the confluence area. On the right, at the so called Thurspitz, treacherous whirlpools can occur. The Rhine flows swiftly for the time being, but without throwing up any difficulties. As a canoeist, you only have to give way to the scheduled passenger ships.

In the distance, the church of Rüdlingen appears on a hill. The former fishing and winemaking village is nestled amongst its vineyards, creating picture-perfect scenery. Many well-preserved timber-framed buildings and the church overlooking the village characterise its landscape. If you want to explore Rüdlingen by foot, you can disembark at the landing stage after the bridge.

At this juncture, you start to feel the effects of the backwater of the Eglisau hydropower plant: the Rhine becomes more and more sluggish and your arms need to work harder to compensate. Although the shore has now become steeper, you can nevertheless find lovingly arranged barbecue areas in the woods to stave off your hunger. Of course, you can also stop for a bite to eat at the garden restaurant at Tössegg. The Rhine is now more lake than river and requires good fitness levels to move forwards. However, the unspoilt nature makes up for the effort required. Vineyards on the right bank are a sure sign of the upcoming finishing point at Eglisau, with its medieval old town and wineries.