Culinary Grand Tour of Switzerland Winter Season

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Intro

Nico Franzoni and Noah Bachofen follow the distinctive flavours and traditional products of Graubünden’s cuisine, venturing into unfamiliar territory – both culinary and geographical. Here, food and drink are never simply given: they must be earned, sometimes through physically demanding, hands-on work.

Fun Facts

  • Gluten-Free Buckwheat In Val Poschiavo, buckwheat takes center stage — naturally gluten-free and a cornerstone of the local cuisine for centuries.
  • Rind Included Unique worldwide: Swiss cheese is produced to such high standards that the rind of almost every variety can be eaten without concern.
  • 5–6 Bar of Pressure During dégorgement, sparkling wine bottles are under 5–6 bar — one precise move makes all the difference.

Day 1

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Weingut Obrecht – Francisca and Christian Obrecht, Jenins, Bündner Herrschaft

Owner Christian Obrecht welcomes Nico and Noah to his picturesque winery in Jenins, in the Bündner Herrschaft. The region’s distinctive climate is immediately tangible. The estate lies on the gently sloping hillsides that shape the landscape, with snow-covered mountains in the background. Morning light bathes the almost picture-perfect scenery in a soft glow.
But the two food enthusiasts are not here just for the view. They are expected to roll up their sleeves—and they are keen to learn. The first lesson begins right away: Nico takes the forklift, and after a brief adjustment period, handles it quite competently. The main task, however, is disgorging—the process of removing the yeast from the neck of the bottle during sparkling wine production. Christian Obrecht demonstrates how this is done manually. The key lies in finding the right angle. Nico and Noah complete the task honourably: one applies a little too much force, the other slightly too little. “The middle way would be perfect,” says Christian Obrecht, before showing them how disgorging is carried out today—with the help of a machine.

Learn more Common.Of Weingut Obrecht – Francisca and Christian Obrecht, Jenins, Bündner Herrschaft

Restaurant Alter Torkel, Jenins, Bündner Herrschaft

Just a few houses away stands Restaurant Alter Torkel, a historic building dating back to the 17th century. It was originally constructed as a communal wine press with a tree press for the winemakers of Jenins. Today, Julia and Oliver Friedrich are at the helm, and they have introduced the concept of “Fine Wineing”: here, the wine determines the dish—not the other way around.
Every twelve weeks, the menu is completely redesigned to match 21 different wines by the glass. Head chef David Esser and his team taste the wines together with sommelier Oliver Friedrich and create dishes based on these pairings. Today, Nico and Noah are invited to join the tasting round and contribute their own ideas. Nico’s suggestions—such as serving Leberli with a glass of Completer, a local white wine—are firmly rejected. Noah’s idea, however, is well received: he suggests serving tacos with a glass of Completer.
The pairing is added to the menu of the restaurant, which features a beautiful terrace set among the vineyards. And as a final note: from Alter Torkel, it is just a 17-minute walk to Heidiland.

Learn more Common.Of Restaurant Alter Torkel, Jenins, Bündner Herrschaft

Schloss Reichenau – von Tscharner, Graubünden

Schloss Reichenau is idyllically located at the confluence of the Anterior and Posterior Rhine and features an impressive castle estate. The property is privately owned by the von Tscharner family, who are active in several fields, including viticulture, asparagus farming and hosting events within the castle grounds. One of their vineyards is located in Jenins, directly below Restaurant Alter Torkel.
Johann-Baptista von Tscharner and his father, Gian-Battista von Tscharner, stand among the vines, busy with pruning work. In simple terms, this involves cutting back the higher, upper branches of the vines. Johann-Baptista von Tscharner hands Nico and Noah a pair of garden shears and sets them to work. It is their first real workout. The month is March, and not a single cloud can be seen in the sky.

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Hofladen Bio Yak Hof Heinz, Sufers, Graubünden

Sufers is a tiny village with fewer than 200 residents. It lies within the Beverin Nature Park, where nature sets the pace. The Heinz family lives in close harmony with this environment, running their farm with a wide variety of animals. Cows moo contentedly in the winter sun, a cat prowls between the houses, and further down a dog watches over her puppy. Yaks peer curiously out of the stable, while sheep bleat nearby.
In the sheep barn, the next task awaits Nico and Noah: milking sheep—an effort that proves only moderately successful.
Tamara Heinz steps in to instruct and assist. The main task, however, is feeding the lambs. What may sound a little dramatic is, in fact, completely harmless: Nico and Noah are allowed to bottle-feed the lambs.

Learn more Common.Of Hofladen Bio Yak Hof Heinz, Sufers, Graubünden
So ‘Lämmli’ are baby sheep – that actually makes sense. I would never have dreamed that I’d be allowed to feed them myself.
Nico Franzoni

Bernina Pass

Stocked up with sheep’s cheese from the farm shop, they hit the road again. Following the Grand Tour of Switzerland, Nico and Noah wind their way up towards the Julier Pass. The pass road leads straight into the snow—a true winter wonderland. As if perfectly timed, the last rays of sunlight shine across the snow at the summit, 2,284 metres above sea level.
They descend into the Engadin, pass St. Moritz, and soon begin climbing the next mountain road. On the drive up to the Bernina Pass, the colours grow ever more dramatic: yellow turns to red, then gradually to blue. The atmosphere becomes magical.
At the summit, 2,309 metres above sea level, the two step out of the car. Cold air, crystal-clear light, wind. They gaze up at the peaks and down to the snow-covered Lago Bianco. In the winter landscape below, the red train of the Rhaetian Railway seems to float through the snow, moving through the darkness like a ribbon of light. Above them, the stars have taken over the sky.
Between towering snow walls, Nico and Noah drive down into Val Poschiavo—into another world, a valley full of secrets and stories.

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Day 2

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Swiss Historic Hotel Albrici, Poschiavo, Graubünden

The Val Poschiavo awakens—and so do Nico and Noah. They spent the night at the Swiss Historic Hotel Albrici.
The hotel is a revelation. Set in a 17th-century palazzo, the house is filled with stories and history. It stands directly on the picturesque village square of Poschiavo. Nico and Noah start the day with a doppio on the piazza before heading to their first task.

Learn more Common.Of Swiss Historic Hotel Albrici, Poschiavo, Graubünden
I was promised a night like staying in a museum—and I have to say, my expectations were more than exceeded.
Nico Franzoni

Caseificio Valposchiavo, Poschiavo, Graubünden

It awaits them at Caseificio Valposchiavo, the local dairy. They are welcomed by Antonio Giacomelli—known as Toni—wearing a white cap and tinted glasses. The dairy is his domain. He has worked here for decades and is regarded as one of the very best at his craft. One cheese even bears his name: the organic Supertony, a semi-hard cheese with a high fat content, first produced in 2003.
Toni involves the two food enthusiasts directly in his work. They handle hoses, drain whey, and learn how the wheels of cheese are stored and matured. The three quickly find common ground, and during the tasting, Nico and Noah are clearly impressed.

Learn more Common.Of Caseificio Valposchiavo, Poschiavo, Graubünden
This cheese has real character—absolutely. Just like Toni and his passion for the craft. You can feel it, and you can taste it. A true delight for the palate.
Noah Bachofen

Mulino Aino, Poschiavo

They take some cheese along to the next stop: the historic mill Mulino Aino. Here, they are welcomed by Emanuele Bontognali, who is both owner and board member. The foundation Ente Museo Poschiavino looks after the mill and is committed to ensuring that the history of the Val Poschiavo is preserved and not forgotten. Emanuele Bontognali shows Nico and Noah how grain was milled in the past and sends them on their way with a bag of buckwheat flour—an essential ingredient for their next stop.

Learn more Common.Of Mulino Aino, Poschiavo

Lunch at the Swiss Historic Hotel Albrici

Lunch in a museum-like setting: dining in the patrician house dating back to 1682 comes with a very special atmosphere. The kitchen team cultivates traditional cuisine with great attention to detail. Pizzoccheri is a perfect example of this approach. Nico and Noah enjoy this 100% Val Poschiavo dish paired with a local Sforzato, the “Selezione Hotel Albrici”. It does not get more local than this—the entire valley on a single plate.

Learn more Common.Of Lunch at the Swiss Historic Hotel Albrici
Graubünden cuisine is incredibly diverse. One of the defining essences of the journey so far is clearly buckwheat. People here work with it again and again.
Noah Bachofen

Casa Tomé, Val Poschiavo, Graubünden

The next stop on Nico and Noah’s journey is Casa Tomé, one of the oldest and best-preserved farmhouse buildings in the Alpine region. The origins of the house date back to the Middle Ages, around 1350. Inside, local resident Loreta Ferrari is waiting to welcome them.
In the beautifully preserved kitchen, she shows the two how to prepare Chisciöl. Put very simply, it is a traditional pancake—but not a sweet one. Following Loreta Ferrari’s instructions, Nico and Noah cook with buckwheat flour from the historic mill and Tony’s cheese from the Caseificio Valposchiavo. They do so well that Loreta Ferrari gives Noah an unintentionally humorous compliment: “Great cutting—almost like a real chef!”

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Raselli Tee, Val Poschiavo, Graubünden

Val Poschiavo is a place that sticks together—you feel it very quickly. Under the label 100% Valposchiavo, people and producers have joined forces, especially when it comes to food. It is therefore not surprising—yet still somehow remarkable—that tea is grown right here in the valley. In Le Prese, close to Lago di Poschiavo, stands the production site of the herbal paradise Raselli. The company is run by three brothers—Fabrizio, Reto and Bruno. Today, it is Bruno Raselli who welcomes Nico and Noah and introduces them to the secrets of aromatic organic herbs. More than 20 plant varieties grow on 15 hectares, forming the basis for teas supplied to both major retailers and smaller consumers. The strikingly beautiful packaging immediately catches the eye. Nico and Noah take one last deep breath of the aromas before saying goodbye to the valley—packing a box of tea to accompany them on the train journey ahead.

Learn more Common.Of Raselli Tee, Val Poschiavo, Graubünden
After twelve hours, I already feel like a Poschiavian at heart.
Nico Franzoni

Bernina Express

Naturally, the journey to the Engadin is by Rhaetian Railway (RhB). The iconic red train is omnipresent in Val Poschiavo, running right through the villages. Nico and Noah settle comfortably into their carriage, gaze out over Lago di Poschiavo, and take a sip of Raselli tea.
The Bernina Express winds its way up one of the most spectacular railway routes in the world, climbing towards Ospizio Bernina. The long train journey eventually brings them to the Lower Engadin, to Scuol. Here, a long day comes to an end—with refined cuisine and a stylish place to stay at the Boutiquehotel Guarda Val.

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Day 3

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Engadiner Boutique-Hotel Guarda Val, Scuol, Graubünden

Well rested and in great spirits, Nico and Noah enjoy a generous breakfast at Guarda Val. The four-star hotel is housed in a 400-year-old Engadine building and also impresses with its gourmet restaurant. A special feature: CEO René Stoye is also the head chef. However, there is no time to linger for too long—the first task of the day is already waiting early on.

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Metzgerei Hatecke, Scuol, Graubünden

At the premium butcher Metzgerei Hatecke, the boss himself is waiting. Ludwig Hatecke welcomes Nico and Noah and immediately hands them each an apron. They are expected to get involved—and make sausages themselves. Along the way, they not only learn how perfect Bündnerfleisch, dried venison and salsiz are made, but also gain a powerful insight into what it means to present food at its very best.
“Meat is valuable,” says Ludwig Hatecke. And what is precious should look the part. Nowhere are raw slices of meat prepared and presented with such precision as they are here—displayed almost like objects in a designer store. His work is often compared to that of a sushi master. Purist is a term frequently used to describe him.
This attention to detail goes beyond the meat itself. All Hatecke branches are designed in a deliberately minimalist style. With their marble walls, they resemble art galleries rather than traditional butcher shops.

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Crusch Alba, Guarda, Graubünden

Hatecke’s premium meats feature on the menu at Crusch Alba in the village of Guarda. Sophie Badel and Felix Hüfner aim to combine a village inn with a fine-dining restaurant. “We want to be a Stube for everyone,” says Sophie Badel. In the kitchen, traditional recipes are reinterpreted with a contemporary touch, and animals are used from nose to tail.
Today, Noah lends Felix Hüfner a hand in the kitchen. He does not just help prepare the food—he also personally pulls a beer for Nico. Noah is clearly in his element. Soon, beef cheeks, pizzoccheri and winter vegetables arrive at the table.
Over the meal, the two start talking about Schellen-Ursli, wondering whether he might have eaten here as well. They do not spot him—but instead admire the beautiful Engadine houses with their richly decorated doors.
Before long, they are back in the car. The next stretch of the route is another highlight: the road runs through the Swiss National Park. Rugged rock faces, untouched forests and wild landscapes pass by. Then the Val Müstair opens up, welcoming Nico and Noah into a new valley.

Learn more Common.Of Crusch Alba, Guarda, Graubünden
Everything is spot on. No unnecessary frills. This is exactly the kind of cuisine I like.
Noah Bachofen

Grand Finale

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Chascharia Val Müstair, Graubünden

Nico and Noah receive a warm welcome at Chascharia Val Müstair from Janic Fasser—the unofficial cheese world champion. He keeps the secret of his award-winning cheese, Tea Fondada, to himself, but gladly introduces Nico and Noah to butter making and the art of caring for cheese. He then sends them up to Alp Champatsch, high above Lü. This is where the milk for his cheese comes from. In summer, the cows graze on the intensely aromatic grass that grows at this altitude.
Nico and Noah explore the alpine pasture themselves. Riding snowmobiles, they race up the slopes before taking a break on a bench overlooking the Val Müstair and its snow-covered peaks beneath a deep blue sky. Here, they reflect on the journey so far—over a glass of Swiss white wine, which tastes even better against such a winter backdrop than it usually does.

Learn more Common.Of Chascharia Val Müstair, Graubünden

Alp Champatsch, Lü

Janic then sends them up to Alp Champatsch, high above Lü. This is where the milk for his cheese comes from. In summer, the cows graze on the intensely aromatic grass that grows at this altitude.
Nico and Noah explore the alpine pasture themselves. Riding snowmobiles, they race up the slopes before taking a break on a bench overlooking the Val Müstair and its snow-covered peaks beneath a deep blue sky. Here, they reflect on the journey so far—over a glass of Swiss white wine, which tastes even better against such a winter backdrop than it usually does.

Learn more Common.Of Alp Champatsch, Lü
Visiting this farm is a true highlight. Being among the sheep, seeing where the milk comes from, and taking products like sheep’s cheese straight from the farm shop shows just how much care goes into making genuinely good food.
Noah Bachofen
This journey truly impressed me. From disgorging to working in the stable, every stop brought something new. And the stay at Guarda Val in Scuol showed just how special hospitality in the mountains of Graubünden can be. Moments like these make me rediscover Switzerland time and again.
Nico Franzoni
Jenins, Obrecht Winery
Jenins, Obrecht Winery
Jenins, Alter Torkel
Jenins, Alter Torkel
Sufers, Yakhof Heinz
Poschiavo, Caseificio Valposchiavo
Poschiavo, Caseificio Valposchiavo
San Carlo, historic mill
Poschiavo, Hotel Abrici
Poschiavo, Casa Tomé
Poschiavo, Bernina Pass
Scuol, Hatecke Vivanda Genuina
Guarda, Restaurant Crusch Alba
Guarda, Restaurant Crusch Alba
Guarda, Restaurant Crusch Alba
Lü, Restaurant Alp Champatsch
Sta. Maria, Cheese Factory

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