Greitspitz Via ferrata - clear air below, high above the ski-slopes

Overview

Hint

Samnaun

Engadin Samnaun Val Müstair

Show on map
Contact

Gäste-Information Samnaun
Dorfstrasse 4
7563 Samnaun Dorf
Phone +41 (0)81 861 88 30
samnaun.ch

Intro

Tough sports via ferrata, with excellent safety using wire ropes, iron treads and artificial handholds. The walk-in, through a landscape dominated by a public skiing facility, can take the edge off the pleasure of the via ferrata. There has been an easier alternative since summer 2003.

Difficulty
K5. Very difficult, but very short via ferrata, along a highly exposed route. The iron treads on the adrenalin-filled traverse are set fairly far apart. The second option (an alternative for the descent) is significantly easier.

Starting-point
Samnaun (1,826 m). The Doppelstockbahn Ravaisch cable-car (Alptrider Eck, 2,496 m) runs from the end of June to mid-October, 8.00 - 17.00.

Walk-in
From the Samnauner Doppelstockbahn mountain station (2,496 m), follow the marked path to Viderjoch (2,732 m). Turn left here, go past the Idjochbahn mountain station (2,760 m), and then on to the right of the ridge (in a northerly direction) on a wide slope (with a route marker) down the mountain as far as a hairpin bend. Go straight on, following the blue markers to the foot of the west ridge of the Greitspitz (approx. 2,680 m, sign).

Greitspitz via ferrata
With safety attachments secured in the best of the rock, the route heads steeply up the edge, before going left into the wall which is completely devoid of natural footholds. Use the iron footholds taking you out into empty space, and then climb vertically on the iron stirrups to the edge (a very demanding ascent). Go along the ridge a little way, to a fork: going straight on takes you directly to the top (as an easier option), while to the left you will again have an extremely airy traverse and a strength-sapping section of wall. The final part is an easier rock climb (but caution, as the rock fractures easily) taking you to the large cross on the western peak of the Greitspitz.

Descent
On the east ridge (wire rope), crossing to the main ridge, then left below and beneath the main peak (2,870 m) and left on a wide trail to the Idjoch lift station (2,760 m). Alternatively, you can also take the easier via ferrata option to climb down to the foot of the west ridge.

Quelle:
Eugen E. Hüsler/Daniel Anker: Wandern vertikal. Die Klettersteige der Schweiz, AT Verlag, Baden 2004

Region: Samnaunberge
Peaks: Greitspitz, Westkuppe (2,850 m)
Time required: climb up from the Alptrider Joch 1 1/2 hours, Greitspitz 3/4hour.
Variation in height: Greitspitz via ferrata 150 m.