Walserweg Gottardo

Val Formazza borders the Goms and was the first Walser settlement south of the Alpine region. This is evident from the construction of the houses, the dialect that is still spoken here and there, and the Walser place names. For example, Ponte is also called Zum Schtäg, and is the start of this stage. From here, you follow the Toce river on a narrow road past the residential areas of Tuffald (S. Michele) and Stafelwald (Fondovalle). The largest water tributary, the Toce flows into Lake Maggiore near Verbano.

You soon leave the valley to your left; the next ascent is no pushover: you now have to climb the demanding 1,200 metres up to Hendar Furggu. First it zigzags through a tall mountain forest, then after the first alpine huts it goes up steeply but steadily across open slopes and alpine pastures. On a terrace at an altitude of around 2,100 metres, the path turns south and makes a wide arc to the shore of Lago Superiore. The natural Karsee Lake shimmers deep blue, framed by steep rock faces. It is the perfect setting for a long rest, perhaps even treating yourself to a swim. The view across Val Formazza and the mountains behind is superb. Clearly visible from here is the rocky basin at Passo Busin, which is part of stage three.

From the northern end of Lago Superiore, you reach the old trail after an elevation gain of a few metres, which you follow through an impressive blocky landscape to Hendar Furggu. As early as 1244, the first Walser families negotiated this alpine crossing with their household goods and farm animals to found the Gurin settlement. The descent there is gentle compared to the ascent: this stage finally ends in the village of Bosco Gurin after crossing a few fields of boulders, then alpine pastures and finally sparse forest. Its architectural style is highly reminiscent of Binn or other villages in Upper Valais. Plot names such as “Grossalp”, “Schwarza Brunna” and “Undar d'Platta” also indicate that Valais German was originally spoken here. For some time now, Alemannic “Tiitsch” has been replaced by Romanic “dialett”. The boundaries between two traditional mountain cultures have become more fluid, and Gurin is gradually becoming Bosco. The museum in the village centre gives good insight into the traditional culture of the Walser people.