On the trail of the stone pine. Discovering pine-panelled dining rooms on the Via Engiadina.
Intro
The “Via Engiadina” high-altitude hiking trail in the Upper Engadin leads from Maloja to Zernez through idyllic villages with typical Engadin houses and centuries-old pine forests. The aromatic pine wood has a calming effect and can be found in the most beautiful “Stüva” interiors along the way, and even sometimes on your plate.
Via Engiadina in the Upper Engadin
The long-distance hiking trail starts in the village of Maloja and offers a wonderful view of the Upper Engadin’s lakes. Comprising five stages it leads via Silvaplana, Celerina, Bever and Zuoz to Zernez (and from there into the Lower Engadin to Vinadi). The route invites you to stay overnight and eat in the traditional “Stüvas”, or dining rooms.
The stone pine and its wood
The stone pine is a native species in the Alps and is characteristic of the forests of the Upper Engadin. The wood is soft and ideal for furniture and dining rooms. In winter the wood stores heat, while in summer the essential oil of the stone pine keeps the flies at bay.
What makes “Stüvas” so special?
The traditional Swiss stone pine parlours, known as “Stüvas” in Romansch, were originally the centre of family life. Thanks to their small windows and their position right next to the kitchen, known as the “Chadafö”, they were the only warm room in the farmhouses. These days, the pine-panelled interiors are valued primarily for their wooden ambience. It wasn’t always like this: when oil-based paints became available, the farmers painted over the wood to give it a facelift – some fragments of paint are still visible in the knotholes to this day.
From Bever to Zuoz. A visit to the most beautiful pine-panelled dining rooms.
Do some good for your heart by spending the night at the Hotel Chesa Salis, Bever.
The former farmhouse was once owned by the von Salis family, which is where its name comes from. Today, the Chesa Salis is a personally managed hotel with 18 unique rooms decorated with traditional wooden panelling and carefully selected furnishings. They say you sleep more soundly in pine-panelled rooms: the scent of pine is supposed to be good for the heart – and to reduce snoring.
Pine, please. A stopover in La Punt.
Stone pine for the taste buds at the Restaurant Krone, La Punt
Coming directly from the Albula Pass over the bridge, you will see the Krone in La Punt perched above the river. It has been run by Sonja and Andreas Martin for over 18 years. While Sonja Martin looks after the guests, her husband works out menus using Swiss stone pine in the kitchen.
Andreas Martin got the idea around seven years ago on a winter walk among the Swiss stone pines when he spontaneously picked up a few pine cones. These days, Martin uses almost every part of the Swiss stone pine. The pine cones are soaked in alcohol and processed into schnapps, the bark is used to ferment vegetables, then fish and beef fillets are smoked with the pine chips and the needle tips are used in fritters.
The stage ends in Zuoz.
Immerse yourself in culinary history in the Restaurant Dorta, Zuoz
If the Dorta could speak it could tell many a tale: it was already in use as a farmhouse in the Middle Ages, falling victim to the flames during the Swabian War of 1499. These days, the decor – consisting of agricultural and hunting equipment – and the integrated dungeon serve as testaments to history. Some of the pine dining rooms date back to the 1600s and are a wonderful setting to enjoy capuns – a Graubünden speciality. But be careful: make sure to watch your head at the entrance.
The restaurant was purchased by Gian Rico Blumenthal in 1994 out of love for the Engadin houses. He not only lavished a lot of love on the impressive decoration, but also allowed traditional Graubünden cuisine to become part of the gastronomic experience. These days the restaurant is run by Salustiano Cardeira, who, together with his team, pampers the guests with local specialties even in the smallest of the dining rooms.