Bielersee Kanu

When the Rhône Glacier began to retreat in 14,000 BC, a lake called the Solothurnersee formed at its terminal moraine near Wangen an der Aare and spanned over 100 kilometres to La Sarraz. Some 4000 years later, the dam broke and the lake emptied out. Lakes Biel/Bienne, Neuchâtel and Murten remained. Situated in an idyllic spot at the southern foot of the Jura mountains, its banks are lined with vineyards and, in fine weather, you can see as far as the Bernese 4,000-metre peaks.

Canoeing in Lake Biel/Bienne is a particularly relaxing way to spend your day. You are your own captain, so you decide the speed and direction. You drift into an almost meditative state as your paddle strokes become rhythmic, sending gentle ripples across the glass smooth surface of the water. Some caution is required when encountering passenger boats or good weather, which attracts water sports enthusiasts from all over. It’s also worth checking the weather forecast, as a headwind or crosswind can make moving across the open water a lot more difficult.

Erlach is an ideal starting point for paddling the length of the lake. The romantic town captivates with its medieval village centre and castle nestled amongst vineyards. Starting from the bathing beach, you paddle through the small harbour and a channel to the other side of St. Peter’s Island. Proceeding along the right-hand lakeshore, you come across sprawling reed beds, which are alive with various species. Whole flocks of water birds find food and protection here. They are sensitive to disturbances, so keep the necessary distance. Zones marked with buoys may not be entered. Generally speaking, care should be taken when it comes to sensitive nature conservation areas. The whole of St. Peter’s Island, the shore from Lüscherz to the Hagneck delta and Mörigen Bay are all protected areas of national importance. You may not dock here apart from in the harbours.

St. Peter’s Island, which became a peninsula following the lowering of the lake level during the Jura water correction programme, is a particularly romantic spot. Even the Romans appreciated its mild climate and superb views. However, the island only became known throughout Europe thanks to the philosophe Jean-Jacques Rousseau, who sought refuge here for a couple of weeks in 1765. He wrote in his autobiographical works: “I have resided at many lovely places; but nowhere have I felt so truly happy as on St. Peter’s Island in the middle of Lake Biel/Bienne, and no other sojourn do I recall with such sweet melancholy.” Rousseau’s enthusiasm allured visitors like Goethe, Empress Josephine Bonaparte and the kings of Prussia, Sweden and Bavaria. Today, St. Peter’s Island is frequently visited by federal councillors as part of official receptions. Indeed, the lake and the view of the Jura, the vineyards and the small wine-growing villages form a unique backdrop.

Following the shores of the lake further, you glide along the south shore past lovely small harbours. Hunger and thirst can be sated in the restaurants, while barbecue areas offer an alternative. It’s right to allow yourself these breaks, as the course requires a certain level of fitness: no current, only your own muscle power will take you to the destination. Shortly after the outflow into the Aare, you arrive in Nidau, Biel/Bienne. Ahead of the harbour, on a small beach near the tennis courts, you can pull your boat from the water – tired, but proud.