Breithorn, 4,164m
Intro
Zermatt’s Breithorn has the following peaks and points: the Western Breithorn (main summit, 4,164m), the Central Breithorn (4,156m), the Breithorn Saddle (the lowest point of the summit ridge: 4,020m), the Breithorn Twins: Eastern Breithorn (4,138m) and Gendarm (4,106m); Roccia Nera (4,073m).
There are plenty of Breithorn peaks in the Swiss Alps. Between the Klein Matterhorn Glacier and the Schwarztor is Zermatt’s Breithorn, which is a full four kilometres wide, and a little over four kilometres high end-to-end. It appears as a vast, glaciated wall with several peaks, all of which have been given their own individual names. The lowest point of the entire mountain ridge forms the saddle (4,020m). Several mighty glaciers in the south and in the north drift down from their high position into the valley. The southern side of the Breithorn is also heavily glaciated (Breithorn Plateau, Grande Ghiacciaio di Verra). These glaciers thaw relatively early nowadays, giving way to many crevasses that generally appear along the usual route, forcing climbers to make a detour. A flawless rope guide is required, as is knowledge in crevasse rescue and self-rescue.
The Breithorn is considered the easiest of the Alps’ four-thousanders, and is frequently climbed as a result. At the same time, however, accidents often happen here, which can sometimes be serious – and are often caused as a result of overconfidence. So what “easy” really means here is “easy if you’re an experienced mountaineer”. If the weather suddenly turns on the Breithorn Plateau, only mountaineers who have good orientation skills will be able to find their way back. If the S-flank is icy then crampons will be required.
Source: Swiss Alpine Club (SAC)
Exclusion of liability
Hiking or climbing on tours in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The mountains and routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. We also recommend hiring a mountain guide.
