Highlights of Graubünden by train. All the key sights on the Alpine Circle.

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Intro

With ancient glaciers, stunning gorges, and diverse flora and fauna, Graubünden offers countless spectacles of nature. The Rhaetian Railway winds its way through all this on tracks and bridges that were feats of engineering, taking us on the Alpine Circle – a journey through the entire canton incorporating all its greatest attractions.

Canton of Graubünden

Switzerland’s largest canton by area is the only one to have three official languages. In addition to its rich culture, it also offers an impressively diverse array of tourist attractions. There are 150 valleys and 615 lakes waiting to be discovered.

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Overview
Gryzonia (Graubünden)
Gryzonia (Graubünden)
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Alpine Circle

The Alpine Circle is a round trip that takes in the most beautiful highlights of the canton of Graubünden’s alpine wilderness. The three routes (ruta focus: 150km, ruta centrala: 200km and ruta cumpleta: 450km) are easy to follow by car or public transport and guarantee that you won't miss out on any of the key sights. Visitors planning to take the full route should allow at least one week.

The 450km route leads around the entire canton, taking in the greatest highlights of Graubünden.

Explore mountains and valleys with the graubündenPASS

Visitors have been discovering the canton of Graubünden with the famous little red train ever since 1889. And wherever the Rhaetian Railway doesn’t reach, buses and cable cars do. Unlimited travel throughout the canton with the graubündenPASS.

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Chur, Barnina Express
As an alternative to a classic road trip, you can also travel the Alpine Circle in comfort using public transport.

Rhine Gorge. Where nature leaves a lasting impression.

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The leisurely pace of nature.

More than 10,000 years ago, the Flims rock avalanche buried the Anterior Rhine. The resulting dammed lake gradually fought its way through the steep walls, some of which were 350m high — creating the Rhine Gorge, which today is 14km long. In addition to the Ruinaulta (the gorge’s Romansch name), Lakes Laax, Cauma and Cresta were also created during this process.

Up with the sun and the swifts

In the early hours, we set off for Flims and walk for about an hour to the “Il Spir” viewing platform (the name means “swift” in Romantsch). The short hike at this early time is well worth it. We experience the incredible 180° views of the Rhine Gorge at sunrise and witness how the Rhaetian Railway winds through the gorge alongside the river.

Landwasser Viaduct. Spectacular rail journey.

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Traversing the Landwasser Viaduct by rail

Next, we experience the Rhaetian Railway, which just a few bends in is already delivering thrills. The Albula/Bernina line is not a UNESCO World Heritage Site for nothing: the tracks are an engineering marvel that weave through the Graubünden mountains by means of helical tunnels and bridges, reaching their highpoint at the Landwasser Viaduct. The train glides over the 65m-high structure, which is equally impressive from the train and from below.

Diavolezza Legends and eternal ice.

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Welcome to warmth and ice in the land of glaciers.

We continue in the direction of the Bernina Pass to the valley station of the Diavolezza cable car. Once at the top, the Diavolezza glacier stretches out below us. To us, the eternal ice appears less like a she-devil, and more like a queen. We explore this panorama on a hike, then relax in the jacuzzi at 3,000m above sea level, taking in the views of the Bernina massif and Piz Palü.

From an enchanting she-devil to an enchanting panorama

Legend has it that one young hunter after another followed a pretty she-devil across the rocks, only to disappear without a trace. Among those meeting their fate was Aratsch, whom the she-devil mourned, crying “Mort ais Aratsch!” (meaning “Aratsch is dead!”) — thus giving rise to the name of the neighbouring Morteratsch glacier. The she-devil could not find peace until the entire valley was covered with ice, which is how the Diavolezza glacier came into being.

Where might the she-devil be lurking today?

Swiss National Park. Hiking amid a diverse plant and animal kingdom.

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17,030 hectares of protected nature

From the eternal ice we continue to Zernez, where we encounter the myriad flora and fauna of the oldest national park in the Alps. At our final highlight, we lace up our hiking boots once again, and a ranger shares with us some of the lesser-known secrets of the national park. Telescope in hand, we spot lazing marmots and learn fascinating facts about the local deer and ibex.

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We finish by talking over our impressions one more time, as we end our round trip back in Chur.

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